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Amid Mumbai’s diversity, possibilities seem endless




Mumbai's Fashion Street, always bustling with shoppers, has hundreds of stalls containing anything shoppers might want to buy.
Mumbai’s Fashion Street, always bustling with shoppers, has hundreds of stalls containing anything shoppers might want to buy.  (Philippe Calia)

The profile of the Dharavi slum in Mumbai, one of the most densely populated neighbourhoods in the world, may have risen when it was showcased in the Oscar-winning movie “Slumdog Millionaire,” but my tour guide didn’t particularly care about that at the moment. What concerned him more was the pejorative nature of the word “slum” and how outsiders perceived Dharavi, an area smaller than New York City’s Central Park but where about 1 million people live and work.

Dharavi slum, where about a million people live and work.
Dharavi slum, where about a million people live and work.  (Philippe Calia / NYT)

“We don’t want people to think slums are dangerous and full of lazy people,” said Hitesh Vaidya, a guide for Reality Tours and Travel. The reality of daily life in Dharavi is sobering, however: Labourers work in unsafe conditions, and a lack of basic services like clean water and sanitation facilities endangers the health of residents. Vaidya and I spent the next couple of hours touring the many different industries and businesses within Dharavi, which included plastics recycling, textile manufacturing and food production. I left with a better knowledge of both the poverty and industriousness of Dharavi, as well as an understanding of Vaidya’s point: that the two are not mutually exclusive.

Mumbai (sometimes called by its former name, Bombay) is an electric and complicated city, an extraordinary place, both uplifting and heartbreaking. Its eclectic composition of different groups and cultures makes it a difficult city to define, but for many, it’s a city that represents possibility. Dharmesh Gandhi, a friend who lives in Mumbai, offered his take on India’s financial centre and one of the world’s most populous cities: “It’s like New York,” he said. “Everything is happening here, so everyone wants to come here.”

After a four-day visit this past October, it was easy to see why: The shopping and entertainment options were excellent, and opportunities for great dining were second-to-none. And while the rupees flow freely in Mumbai, I was able to keep my spending under control.

A couple of logistical items: My flight, booked through Jet Airways, cost a bit over $200 for a one-way flight from Sri Lanka. As I was re-entering India, I had to produce my double-entry e-visa once more to passport control. My Uber ride from the airport was about 370 rupees, or a little more than $5. If you’d prefer not to use Uber, another popular service is Ola Cabs. I used both while in Mumbai, typically opening both apps and using whichever had a car closer to me. The ubiquitous tuk-tuk is conspicuously absent in much of Mumbai (“The traffic here is bad enough,” Gandhi told me). In central Mumbai, you’ll just see regular taxis. Fortunately, they’re metered, with fares beginning at 22 rupees.

I was well-located in the Fort neighbourhood of the city, close to the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Terminus railway station, the huge Victorian landmark constructed in the late 19th century. My quarters at the Hotel Residency Fort, Mumbai, booked for $52 a night on, were modest luxury, roomy and air-conditioned, and with free breakfast.

A walk around the neighbourhood was the first order of business: A stop by Mumbai’s first Anglican church, St. Thomas Cathedral, established in 1718, was followed by a visit to the free Jehangir Art Gallery near Wellington Fountain. I enjoyed the Nayanaa Kanodia exhibition, “The Quintessential Woman: A Celebration,” which featured oil paintings and drawings celebrating feminism. Another exhibition, “Rural Beauty,” featured darker, more sensual pencil and pastel works by Parshuram B. Patil.

There are numerous fine museums in Mumbai, including Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharaj Vastu Sangrahalaya (formerly known as the Prince of Wales Museum of Western India). Admission is 500 rupees, plus an additional 50-rupee fee to take cellphone photos. The main hall of the museum, which features Rajastani temple columns and wooden railings from a nobleman’s home, is topped with a great Islamic dome — a nod to Mumbai’s diverse history.

There are some wonderful statues of Indian deities on the ground floor — Shiva, Ganesh, Brahma and Vishnu, some dating as far back as the sixth century. I also enjoyed looking at a series of paintings from the late 17th and early 18th centuries, done in the Rajasthani Bikaner style, particularly one depicting a scene from the Mahabharata epic.

My favourites, though, were probably the later work of Jehangir Sabavala, a Mumbai-born artist who died in 2011 at age 89. His paintings, which intriguingly join East with West, have elements of both cubism and impressionism. I particularly liked “The Eye,” as well as his sombre “The Raven,” 2010 works that were two of Sabavala’s final pieces.

The Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum, which claims to have been Mumbai's first, opened in 1872.
The Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum, which claims to have been Mumbai’s first, opened in 1872.  (Philippe Calia)

The most interesting museum I visited proved to be the Dr. Bhau Daji Lad Mumbai City Museum, which claims to be Mumbai’s very first, established in 1872 (100 rupees admission). The building itself is quite beautiful and houses interesting artifacts like old model ships, ganjifa — round playing cards that became popular under Mughal emperors in the 16th century — and examples of pottery from the Sir J.J. School of Art near the turn of the 20th century. Particularly interesting was an exhibition documenting the movement of peoples to Mumbai over the years, from the Kolis fishermen of Gujarat in the 13th century to the Parsi, Surati and Khoja people that immigrated with the rise of the East India Co.

But it’s not just the past that impresses in Mumbai — the present is pretty happening, too. I headed to the club the Quarter one evening to catch a show with Azamaan Hoyvoy and his pseudo-funk trio (750 rupees for a standing ticket). They grooved through a number of pretty good covers, including “How Deep Is Your Love” and Allen Stone’s “Unaware.” Cocktails at the Quarter run in the 600 rupee range, but you can get a Kingfisher beer for 275.

I spent another evening at Shanmukhananda Hall, a large auditorium near the King’s Circle train station, to take in a Lucky Ali concert (1,500 rupees, purchased through the website Book My Show). Lucky Ali, a Mumbai-born musician, went through crowd-pleasing soft rock favourites with a six-piece band. Between numbers, he took the opportunity to speak on various issues. “If Ganga goes, where do we go?” he asked, referring to the Ganges River. “I think half of you probably haven’t even been there. Go there! Plant some trees or something.”

People line up to enter the Siddhi Vinayak Mandir. The top of the temple is visible in the distance.
People line up to enter the Siddhi Vinayak Mandir. The top of the temple is visible in the distance.  (Philippe Calia)

About 2 1/2 miles to the southwest is Siddhi Vinayak Mandir, a beautiful temple dedicated to Ganesha and an essential place of worship for many Mumbai Hindus. I arrived just in time one evening for a puja, and after leaving my shoes at a counter outside, was ushered in to the sound of clapping, drums, bells and the smell of incense. A small, serene-looking Ganesha statue sat among orange and white flowers while a group of about 150 of us stood engaged in an intense, rhythmic call-and-response that changed tempos and melodies throughout the course of the next 30 minutes. For those looking to worship in a hurry, a “quick darshan” line can be entered for a payment of 50 rupees.

Any explorer of Mumbai will eventually need to try one of thousands of street vendors and restaurants that grace the city. Fortunately, there is no shortage of good options, and nearly every price point is covered. The Bombay street sandwich is one you’ll see everywhere and, if you’re feeling adventurous, certainly worth trying. A typical example features sliced cucumber, potato, onion, tomato and beetroot on toasted bread, served with a variety of spicy chutneys. At 25 or 30 rupees, it’s an absolute steal.

Mumbai’s reputation for street food par excellence is well deserved, and on Sheikh Memon Street, near the Juma Masjid mosque, I indulged in another treat: a plate of dahi puri (40 rupees), savory chickpeas stuffed into flaky puri shells, drenched in tart yogurt and dusted with spices and herbs. And no Mumbai street food discussion is complete without mentioning vada pav, the quintessential carbohydrate bomb that features a fried potato fritter squished into soft white roll (about 10 rupees, and it can be found all over).

The city does upscale dining with equal aplomb. Prateek Sadhu and Aditi Dugar own Masque, an elegantly repurposed industrial space that serves a 10-course tasting menu every day except Monday. The wine pairing alone, however, costs 6,000 rupees — it’s not exactly a place for penny-pinchers. Fortunately, Masque offers a bar menu for walk-ins like me looking for a lighter meal.

A very good sour eggplant toast (350 rupees), sweetened with tamarind and covered with caramelized onions, functioned as a kind of tangy eggplant pâté. A twist on pani puri, the classic street food, filled the thin shells with a cactus salad and corn mousse (350 rupees). Something described as pork okonomiyaki (500 rupees) really was like a sweet-glazed pork taco, competently prepared and served with a nice cabbage slaw. My server, Ayush, was particularly good and made me feel right at home.

Lunch at Gurukripa, a vegetarian restaurant in the Sion neighborhood.
Lunch at Gurukripa, a vegetarian restaurant in the Sion neighborhood.  (Philippe Calia)

Somewhere in the middle, you’ve got Gurukripa, an all-day casual vegetarian restaurant in the Sion neighbourhood. There’s an exceptionally good pav bhaji (96 rupees), a tomato-y mash of spiced vegetables served with a slab of rapidly melting butter. White rolls, crunchy pappadum and a sharp onion salad round out the meal. Or there’s Ling’s Pavilion, a Mumbai institution, where the steamed pork with salted fish (500 rupees) and creamy fried corn curd (275 rupees) will help explain the country’s love of Chinese food.

And don’t forget the shopping. At the excellent Kitab Khana bookstore, I perused the sizable section titled “Books on Gandhi and by Gandhi” before settling on Mohandas Gandhi’s autobiography, “The Story of My Experiments with Truth,” for just 156 rupees. Another day, I set out in search of spices and ended up at Lalbaugh Market near Chinchpokli Station. Wandering down Dinshaw Petit Road, I followed the sound of loud, metallic pounding until I ended up at Vishwas, a specialty spice store where a shopkeeper was in the process of mashing a red substance into fine powder. I asked for haldi, or turmeric, and the man behind the counter spooned a 200-gram plastic bagful for 60 rupees.

But the best way to get a feel for the city might be to walk along Fashion Street on a weekend afternoon. Fashion Street is on the western edge of Fort, along Mahatma Gandhi Road, flanking a big public park, Azad Maidan, and branching off into Karmaveer Bhaurao Patil Road to the south. On the street, packed solid with shoppers, are hundreds of stalls containing anything you could possibly want to wear — dresses, T-shirts, jeans and accessories.

Groups of young men play cricket all around Fashion Street.
Groups of young men play cricket all around Fashion Street.  (Philippe Calia)

I picked up a shirt for 250 rupees and, after a bit of haggling over the initial price of 1,000, walked away with a pair of jeans for 600 rupees. Satisfied with my haul, I walked through the Karnatak Sports Ground, where organized teams were playing games of cricket. As the sun began to set, I crossed the street to Azad Maidan, past food vendors selling snacks and couples lounging on the grass while groups of boys played decidedly more casual pickup cricket games with tennis balls.

Over a good dinner at the Parsi restaurant Ideal Corner, I reflected on my time in a city that has so much to offer — too much for one trip, certainly. Some trips are draining, but Mumbai left me feeling energized. I would have to return again to this dynamic city, and soon.

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Travel & Escape

Why your hotel mattress feels like heaven (and how to bring that feeling home)





(NC) Choosing the right mattress is a long-term investment in your health and well-being. To make a good choice for your home, take a cue from luxury hotel-room beds, which are designed to support the sound sleep of tens of thousands of guests, 365 nights a year.

“When we’re shopping for a mattress, we do lab testing, identify the best materials, bring in multiple mattress samples and have our associates test them,” explains David Rizzo, who works for Marriott International. “We ask for ratings on comfort level, firmness, body support and movement disruption. It takes 12 to 18 months just to research and select materials.”

Here, he shares his tips to pick the perfect mattress for your best sleep:

Understand your needs. People have different food and exercise preferences, as well as different sleep cycles. So, it’s no surprise that everyone has unique mattress preferences. Not sure whether a firm or a soft mattress is better? Rizzo says the best gauge is to ask yourself, “Do I wake up with aches and pains?” If the answer is no, you’re golden.

Foam versus spring. All mattresses have a core that is made up foam or innersprings or a combination of the two. Today’s foam-core mattresses contain memory foam — a material engineered by NASA to keep astronauts comfortable in their seats. It’s special because it retains or “remembers” its shape, yielding to pressure from the sleeper’s body, then bouncing back once the pressure is removed.

An innerspring mattress has an encased array of springs with individual coils that are connected by a single helical wire. This wire creates continuous movement across the coil that minimizes disruption if the mattress is disturbed, such as by a restless sleeper. According to Rizzo, the innerspring is “bouncier.”

Temperature preference. Consider how warm or cool you like to sleep, and factor in the construction of the mattress to find one with a temperature that suits you. The air space engineered into an innerspring mattress promotes ventilation, which some people find keeps them pleasantly cool. To accomplish the same purpose with a foam mattress (or the foam layer of an innerspring) it may be infused with metal, usually silver or copper, to help dissipate heat and humidity.

Need to test out the right mattress for your needs? Find the right fit during your next trip by booking your stay at

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Travel & Escape

How to make the most of summer travel





(NC) One of the best parts of our short Canadian summers is the opportunity to enjoy them a little bit extra on long weekends. If you need ideas, check out these creative things to do whether you decide to stay in town or go away.

Do a dinner crawl. Pub crawls are fun for couples, friends and also families with older kids. For an exciting twist that stretches your dollars and lets you taste food from several spots before you get too full, try a dinner crawl. Eat apps at one restaurant, mains at another and dessert at another.

Go on a mini getaway. You don’t need to go very far to enjoy a vacation – exploring a Canadian city over a summer weekend is great way to treat yourself to a holiday. Whether it’s checking out the museums in Toronto or the parks in Vancouver, there’s something for everyone. For upgraded benefits, special experiences and the best rates guaranteed, join Marriott Bonvoy and book direct on

Host a potluck. Perfect whether you’re staying at home or going to your cottage, gather friends and family together for some food and fun. A potluck is an easy and affordable way to host a big get-together and lets everyone try something new and swap recipes. Make the festivities extra special with a fireworks potluck, too – ask everyone to bring some fireworks or sparklers and put on a light show. Just be sure to follow local regulations for consumer fireworks.

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Travel & Escape

Lottoland: Here’s why Canadians love it!





Lotteries have been in existence for many centuries now and it’s an open secret that most people enjoy playing a good lottery.

Asides from gauging your own luck, the thrill of playing, the anticipation of the results and the big wins every now and then is something most people look forward to. Since 1982, the lottery has been in Canada, but now there is a way to play both the Lotto and other international lotteries from Canada, all from the comfort of your home.

With Lottoland, all you need to do is register and get access to numerous international lotteries right from their website. The easy-to-use interface has all the information you need, and great amount of care has been taken to ensure that the online experience is similar—and even better—than if players were to visit each location personally.

The Powerball and Mega Millions lotteries are hitting record highs with their prize money, in what the organizers claim to be the largest jackpot in the history of the world. However, the U.S. has gambling laws that are state controlled and buying your ticket through an online broker can be considered gambling.

“No one except the lottery or their licensed retailers can sell a lottery ticket. No one. Not even us. No one. No, not even that website. Or that one,” Powerball’s website says.

Therefore, to stand a chance to win the $1.5 billion-dollar lottery jackpot it means you have to purchase your lottery tickets directly from a licensed retailer such as Lottoland.

Since 2013, Lottoland has been operating in Canada, rapidly growing in popularity amongst Canadians. Due to its easy of use and instant access to lotteries that were previously considered inaccessible—as Canadians had to travel all the way to the U.S. to purchase tickets in the past—Lottoland has attracted lots of visitors.

Currently, there about 8-million players on Lottoland, a figure that points to the reliability of the website.

One of the core values of Lottoland is transparency and that’s why a quick search on the website would show you a list of all of their winners. Recently, a Lottoland customer was awarded a world-record fee of $137 million CND.

Also, due to the incredibly slim chances of winning the grand prize not everyone would take home mega-dollar winnings, but there are substantial winnings every day.

Securing your information online is usually one important factor when registering on any platform and as the site explains, “Lottoland works very hard to verify your information.”

The site has a multi-verification process that will ensure that you confirm your identity and age before giving you a pay-out. However, in the rare case that a player has immediate luck and wins a lottery before completing the verification process, Lottoland will hold on to the winnings until they complete your verification.

While this might seem like a tedious process, it is very important as these safety features would ensure that your information wasn’t stolen and ultimately your winning routed to another account.

Lottoland is licensed with the National Supervisory Bodies For Lotteries in several countries such as the United Kingdom, Italy, Sweden, Ireland and Australia—where it is called a wagering license. Typically, most gaming companies don’t establish insurance companies as it entails that their activities have to be transparent and the must be highly reputable in the industry.

Nonetheless, Lottoland has no issues meeting up to these standards as they have established themselves as the only gaming sector company who has its own insurance company—an added advantage for new and existing users.

Lotteries aren’t the only games Canadians enjoy playing and Lottoland recognizes this by providing players with other types of gaming. As an industry leader, video designers of online games often make them their first choice when it comes to publishing their works.

Online games such as slots, blackjack, video poker, baccarat, keno, scratchoffs, roulette and many others are always on offer at the Lottoland Casino. There’s also the option of playing with a live dealer and a total of over 100 games.

Lottoland has received numerous rave reviews from its growing list of satisfied customer and their responsive customer service agents are always available to answer any questions users may have, along with solving challenges they may have encountered.

More and more Canadians are trooping to Lottoland in droves due to the unique experience of going to a casino without having to leave the comfort of their homes.

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